The gate to the car parking zone campground opened promptly at eight and we rolled out into San Pedro de Atacama one final time.
We had had fleeting conversations with the Argentines and the Chileans of their RVs and I stated good morning to the German within the grey camper truck however aside from that we got here, Layne cooked, we slept, we went.
We handed the gate guard a bag of greens that customs officers round right here are likely to confiscate and set off, our fridge loaded with cooked meats after Layne’s marathon cooking session the night time earlier than. Cooked meats are okay however uncooked meats will not be allowed to go on the Chile/Argebtina border in both route. Go determine. Not an ideal place to camp as you possibly can see under, nevertheless it did the job, although we’d have been happier with scorching showers for $17.
Freeway 27 out of San Pedro goes straight up the mountain from 8,000 ft to 13,000 over 20 miles. We stopped after half an hour and made coca tea and every ate a banana to deprive Argentine customs the pleasure of confiscating them. Since Mexico these are the one borders that obsessively prohibit meat greens fruit honey and a few nuts. So we now have received a bit delicate about it.
A traditional volcano cone arising out of the morning mists, it jogged my memory of Mexico for some cause.
And there have been a few bike excursions to deal with too, two dozen bikes passing and stopping as we went as much as the go. It was a Saturday so no shock they have been out touring however they messed us up on the border.
There have been extra motorcyclists admiring the volcano and a few vans cooling their brakes. Pictures don’t present how steep this highway is however there was a warning in iOverlander to watch out. We floor up the hill between 20 and 35 miles for hour as I attempted to not push regardless that we wished to get this part completed.
There’s a highway that goes north into Bolivia from right here. It’s used largely by yours who take folks to see the flamingos within the salt ponds in southern Bolivia and you are able to do a tour from San Pedro in Chile, which is the closest city. However this highway can also be utilized by overlanders who desire a little bit of journey, a journey with a really unsure consequence. It’s about 300 miles of non maintained dust observe at 12,000 or extra ft and Bolivia is so poor you might be completely by yourself, no SOS telephones, full patrols, no nothing. Overlanders don’t journey it alone. We both our 9400 pound supply truck aren’t going to even strive. That’s the way you destroy your transmission.
If you need a really dangerous journey in your 4 wheel drive journey car it is best to come down and drive the Lagunas Route from Uyuni Bolivia to San Pedro in Chile. And get this, it is a border submit so in case your papers aren’t good you possibly can be caught right here in Bolivia 300 miles from civilization. What enjoyable. We waved on the border and drove on by.
If you want to see the Lagunas Route you possibly can search YouTube for it and watch folks sanitizing some robust driving. Search “Lagunas Route Bolivia.
Again in the actual world we saved driving uphill to the plateau round 13,000 ft main as much as the go itself.
All the highway throughout the Jama Go on either side of the border is paved and we have been rolling at 50 and even 60 miles an hour at these loopy altitudes.
We stopped at an overlook claimed by the native Lucian indigenous folks. Overlanders we knew tried free tenting on this space they usually reported they have been approached by an area dude who stated it was essential to get tribal permission to camp on this area. He allow them to keep and was totally understanding however we had no plan to attempt to sleep at 14,000 ft.
It’s marked as a lagoon on Google Maps and there’s sufficient water to maintain life as a result of we noticed birds that appeared like thrushes up right here and herds of guanacos too.
Technically it was chilly up right here, the thermometer was displaying 46 levels however I used to be in shorts and shirt sleeves as there was no wind and the solar was scorching.
Rusty as all the time liked the altitude.
GANNET2 and a Mercedes tour bus. You actually don’t should convey your individual automobile to see these locations.
Salt flats.
I’ve no clue what this guanaco thought it was consuming.
We had this valley to cross to succeed in the go. There was truly highway work happening down there with flashers and site visitors lights and every part. We received a inexperienced mild on arrival which was good.
The Jama Go itself was a complete letdown. It’s in Chile, not on the border however there have been no indicators or something to {photograph}. I knew we have been shut as a result of I took a display screen shot of our highest level but. However the go itself cave and went unmarked and all of a sudden we have been descending. 15,900 ft and nothing to indicate for it. Grrr.
The surroundings was fairly spectacular after all however we each felt the drive up the dust highway to Paso Agua Negra, a mere bagatelle at 15,700 ft was extra colourful and much more astonishing. This highway was nice although and we bowled alongside at 50 mph.
This European dude caught as much as us on the border. I can not think about pedaling over a 15,900 foot go with all of your crap neatly packed in your bicycle. He appeared to be doing fantastic.
That is the precise border, a line crossing the freeway on the descent to the customs submit within the valley under at 13,500 ft.
The Chilean and Argentine customs are in the identical constructing. You go in and examine in another country you might be leaving after which examine into the nation you might be visiting.
They name it an built-in management level for each nations and it’s fairly slick. Particularly in winter as you do every part indoors. However these damned motorcyclists (pretty folks after all) have been lined up in entrance of us. A protracted lengthy line.
The man on the guard hut, an Argentine Gendarme offers you a ticket with area for every company to place a stamp. Then as you undergo the constructing you gather stamps like a monopoly recreation. On the different finish the opposite gendarme collects it and off you go. It’s a fairly good system
truly.
Even with the type the entire course of took an hour and it was simple. We chatted with the officers who loved processing actual foreigners (!) and customs all the time asks if the automobile is rented. Hell no I puff myself up and say we drove all the way in which. The officers of the assorted businesses instructed us they do shifts of eight days on and eight days off and go house to their nearest respective cities on their days off. My type of schedule. No pictures previous this level.
This place is sort of the hub with a fuel station and a restaurant. The fuel station attendant appeared to be on strike or one thing and sat in his cabin and didn’t serve the bikes (extra of them) forward of us. We failed the Bolivia take a look at the place fuel is broadly not accessible and stated screw this and drove off. We had half a tank and weren’t determined.
The bike hordes additionally received to the restaurant earlier than us so sure there was a wait time. Frankly I used to be shocked we both of us had an urge for food at this altitude however a cup of coca tea and two Tylenol and we have been fantastic. Maybe we’re acclimating a bit over time. That will likely be good for prime altitude Bolivia.
There was a Mexican soccer match on the television and a line of motorcyclists ordering meals. We received the WiFi password (“contraseña”) and we used that to plan our route.
First course was a meat broth. Fairly scrumptious.
Then we shared a steak in a mushroom sauce with mashed potatoes. Any questions?
Again on the highway for 2 hours down hill.
Good highway.
We noticed the Germans from the campground blow previous us whereas we have been at lunch. Then we handed them whereas they paused by the aspect of the highway.
Spot the guanacos.