Camped at 5700 ft overlooking the mountains and a cloud lined ocean… and I get to see it due to Rusty who warbles within the morning like an off key wolf when he needs to exit. What selection do I’ve? I stand up and we stroll.
This was a terrific iOverlander free camp and we had been fortunate as there was no wind in any respect, so it was truly heat up right here.
I used to be requested why we’ve a 110 kilometer an hour sticker on GANNET2 and the reply is as a result of we had been in Argentina the place they require such stickers on huge autos. In fact we’re international registered so technically we aren’t required to show it because it’s not required in our dwelling nation, however my considering is all the time what can I do to maintain the native cops comfortable? In the event that they anticipate to see it then I’ll put it there. Identical story for the ugly purple and white reflective stickers which are peeling off our Promaster. They’re required in Peru so I will probably be refreshing them subsequent week earlier than we cross the border. We even have a entrance license plate (known as a “patente” in Chile and Argentina) which was not issued by Florida which is a rear plate solely state. I obtained a replica made on Etsy and caught it on the entrance. Once more, that’s to fulfill native police as they anticipate to see license plates on the entrance.
Our plan was to get going earlier Saturday morning to have extra time to seek out our camp for the evening. Rusty discovered time to do his favourite factor.
I used to be astonished to see a zorro -a fox- come by to say good day. He trotted off earlier than Rusty observed him. By the point our chief safety officer awoke to the state of affairs the fox was on his method and skipped out of sight as Rusty lumbered after him placing on an enormous barking present of defending us. I can’t think about what foxes stay on out right here however he regarded very wholesome.
We drove inland a dozen miles to the PanAmerican the place we turned north towards Antofagasta. The plan was to bypass the town which we’ve visited twice beforehand together with throughout our failed try and get a visa for Bolivia.
There may be all the time a reminder that is mining nation. Fortunately this lot had been taking a break from slowing down visitors.
Driving the PanAmerican Freeway, also called Freeway 5, by way of Chile makes journey straightforward. There are many relaxation stops, roadside services and issues to eat.
Lunch was a hamburger the dimensions of my head. Layne obtained scrambled eggs and chorizo and the meals stand girl gave us a turkey sandwich free of charge so we may style it. That was a shock.
Antofagasta is an industrial port metropolis however it stretches up the hill to the freeway the place truck providers line the highway and it’s a dusty greasy mess, restore outlets, truck washes and warehouses. We blew previous as we had a sizzling bathe on our minds.
Copec expenses a greenback for a sizzling bathe, so after we obtained gasoline we additionally placed on clear garments. Having a bathe within the van is vital to some folks however for us we don’t need the complication and the humidity of sizzling water. The showers at Copec are clear and nicely organized and are a deal with.
We turned again to the coast north of Antofagasta bypassing the town and obtained on coastal Freeway One north.
It was a chilly overcast day with thick clouds overhead. That was annoying because the valley we had left behind was vivid and sunny.
Beneath you possibly can simply noticed an ore loading gantry which they use to fill ships utilizing minimal port services. The ore ship anchors and backs as much as the pier and will get loaded by the equipment on the pier.
The highway was full of vehicles touring between Antofagasta and Iquique (ee-key-kay) and there was no sense in any respect that we had been off the crushed path. This was a two lane freeway full of visitors on a Saturday afternoon.
There’s many extra folks dwelling alongside the shore right here than Friday’s coastal drive which was very remoted. After we parked for the evening some locals got here by with fish so I suppose fishing will be completed regardless that the surf appears a bit a lot.
Earlier than the Battle of the Pacific in 1879 this stretch of coast belonged to Bolivia the place Iquique and Arica to the north belonged to Peru. The Bolivians obtained it into their heads that Chile was mining illegally on their turf so that they put their heads along with Peru and began a battle with Chile.
Chile was a small disorganized nation on the time struggling to outline its southern border with Argentina and attempting to assert Patagonia as its personal, a declare Argentina rejected by forcing Chile again to the pure Andean border that separated them.
Chile had additionally gained management of its southern provinces close to Puerto Montt by importing disaffected Europeans, principally Germans to colonize and develop that space identified right this moment as The Lakes Area round Pucón and Frutiliar. The failed European revolutions of 1848 offered a lot of folks keen to start out a brand new life in a brand new world.
Sadly for Bolivia and Peru Chile thrashed them within the Battle of the Pacific.
Bolivia misplaced its entry to the ocean, Peru misplaced two cities on the coast, Iquique and Arica, when Chile gained the northern border it controls right this moment. This coast would look in all probability a lot the identical as it isn’t actually going to be straightforward to develop regardless of who owns it.
We ended up seaside tenting south of El Loa, the outdated border between Bolivia and Peru, now a provincial border inside Chile.
These filth tracks are in all places resulting in mining operations within the mountains.
Oh and the highway turned to filth at one level. That was a pleasant shock and naturally we questioned how lengthy that may final. Solely a few miles it turned out however it felt like Argentina for a minute there, land of the crappy disorganized highways. Oh and no passing by the best way, not that truck drivers cared as they shot previous the dainty gringo selecting his method ever so slowly.
Via the tunnel into some sunshine.
We’re getting near Peru and it exhibits. That is how they eliminate rubbish in Peru and northern Chile.
Our subsequent iOverlander free camp. Not an excessive amount of rubbish and Rusty was exceeding glad to get out of the torture machine as he isn’t keen on winding roads.
Seaweed collectors and their canines going dwelling:
My canine discovered one thing however I didn’t examine.
A quite unusual uncovered spot however there’s no wind and it’ll do properly for an evening. Not each camp is wonderful.
Tomorrow an organized campsite in Iquique. Peru will probably be 220 miles away.