The Golden Van: A Flag Day

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A good friend from Key West texted me final night time and set me to serious about how far I’ve come from regular. Going to work at nightfall was once regular and spending the night time making an attempt to remain awake or listening to individuals in agony was once regular, and he stated I appeared extra relaxed now. Sure I suppose I’m.  The stress of answering 911 solely turns into obvious from a distance. It was once regular. Going for a stroll in a completely alien surroundings, at nightfall is regular now. 

I acquired distracted making an attempt to resolve if this image was price conserving with all its technical imperfections  and by the point I made a decision it was she had disappeared.

The Catholic aspect of the Plaza de Armas, the principle sq. of Arequipa was saying the rosary final night, and located it in Latin, a method I haven’t heard since I used to be an altar boy within the sixties. Throughout the sq. the evangelicals represented not by the hierarchy however by a loudly praying indigenous lady backed by a band was praying by way of a microphone.

The each day wrestle continued between the cacophony of competing ideologies.

I seen within the Uber driver’s resume considered one of his abilities was talking Italian. I made a decision to disregard that as I get bored making an attempt to clarify my combined up ancestry however he picked me out of the vacationer line up immediately once I greeted him in my tainted Spanish. I needed to admit I used to be Italian. As soon as upon a time anyway.

However you understand what? It was a memorable dialog, fortunately about him, not me. Emigrating from Italy to america is a biography backed by stereotype and bits my quick hand fall again rationalization for why I communicate Spanish (mangled) with an Italian accent. His story was way more attention-grabbing to me.

He had lived in Milan for 5 years along with his Italian girlfriend making good cash within the ordinary technological subject which is figure I don’t perceive. He bothered of it although and I believe the connection went south too however as a result of was blissful he selected to return to Arequipa. The climate is nicer and he likes his household and associates though the price of residing is greater he stated. 

I requested him about that. He insisted he made higher cash in Arequipa I suppose by driving Uber half time for additional money on prime of his tech work however he pays extra right here than in Italy for groceries and different each day bills. He appeared real, however I’ve all the time considered Italy as unconscionably costly. And but for this younger man residing in Peru prices him extra however it’s price it. 

And do it goes, one other utterly sudden view of life in Peru. On Monday, tomorrow, I’m going to the transmission store as I’ve been invited to observe my transmission begin the method of reassembly. Thrilling sure however I need to be certain I’ve sufficient money to pay for the work. We’ve given him $1500 up to now for the components however I’m assuming he’ll need Soles for his labor do I acquire some on the ATM sometimes. 

The little man within the machine pays out $190 in Soles (“so-lays” which suggests “suns”) and fees $5 to present me 700 Soles in blue 100 and pink 50 denominations. You must break them down to purchase issues on the road. An empanada vendor with $1.25 empanadas can’t simply change a $13 (50 Soles) invoice. That’s the opposite Peruvian economic system, that of the poor. 

On a whim I purchased a guide for my Kindle yesterday. $10 or 35 Soles, a day’s hard-earned wages. It’s the story of the aftermath of the Battle of Waterloo an offbeat topic I’ve by no means seen addressed. It’s completely irrelevant to my present scenario and is a mark of my retired gringo privilege.

Saturday was flag day in Peru. They mark the ultimate defeat within the Conflict of the Pacific in 1879. Peru and Bolivia wished to grab Chilean mines within the Atacama desert however Chile fought again and thrashed Bolivia into retreating and dropping their entry to the ocean at Antofagasta and what was then the key port of Cobija. 

The cities of Iquique (“ee-key-kay”) and Arica had been Peruvian however the Chileans marched up with 5500 seasoned troopers and killed 500 of the 1500 defenders and captured  the town. Thus the border you see as we speak the place Peru ends simply south of Tacna. 


Its all very heroic melodramatic stuff of which legends are made and of which younger pupils are instilled, and the nation will get a break day. 

Rusty doesn’t wish to stroll a lot across the metropolis so he stays within the van once I make my sorties from the compound. I meandered down the hill to the river and went to the grocery store, simply two blocks from Las Mercedes. PlazaVea is a contemporary nationwide chain with all the same old stuff, not one of many indigenous road markets we’ve wandered within the Andes. 

It’s getting fairly chilly at night time as winter units in. The times are sunny and dry with heat sunshine and no variation. 

It will get darkish at 5:30 on Central Time right here. 

Previous the skatepark carrying my groceries. 

House candy dwelling; you buzz and so they open. If you wish to go away you pull the blue twine which rings a bell. 

The empty campground. We’re parked past the loos out of sight. 

Rusty in close to darkness consuming dinner questioning the place Layne is and ready to see what occurs. 


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