The fact of driving the primary hundred miles of the ghost highway had a full day to sink in on Tuesday. I bought up at 5 in our wild camp and it was cool and nice, certainly Layne sleeping subsequent to me was below a blanket. There have been no bugs biting regardless of all of the doorways and home windows left open in a single day. There wasn’t even any site visitors rumbling down the grime highway. It was a surprisingly nice begin to the day.
We had 260 miles of grime to cowl and it was alleged to look one thing like this. I had anticipated a a lot narrower highway fabricated from dried purple clay lined by impenetrable jungle however as a substitute we bought a freeway via ranch land. Thoughts you the highway floor varies wildly and our pace alternated between ten and infrequently twenty miles per hour relying how lumpy it was.
In fact we had mud to take care of particularly when automobiles overtook us or met us heading at pace. An 18 wheeler going fifty on among the sandy patches raises an enormous balloon of talcum powder and until we’re parked nicely again by the aspect of the highway (beneath) we now have to drive via it (above).
Then there are, wonderful to narrate, roadworks on this forgotten chunk of freeway, and what a multitude they’re as the complete half the freeway with a pile of grime and slowly tamp it down.
One of the best half is there’s no flagger and you may’t see the opposite finish do within the occasion we met any person I don’t know what the protocol is. That is South America so it could all come out within the wash I assume. We simply pressed on.
The surroundings is fairly what you would possibly count on driving via ranch nation for hour after hour.
The odd factor is nothing is as dramatic as I had anticipated however I ought to level out that as I wrote this we’ve coated 100 miles and one other 160 are forward of us nonetheless till we meet pavement once more. We additionally drove via the one village on the route 27 miles into the grime highway drive, a spot referred to as Actuality:
And weren’t we shocked to see business billboards welcoming us to Actuality:
The equipment retailer welcomed us and there’s a bike restore store too.
However the village was actually extra like a Western movie set with wood buildings scattered alongside the freeway. Foolish me however I had been anticipating one thing extra organized with sidewalks and so forth however I assume this place is improvised and never correctly included.
At all times the pace bumps in city areas:
Drug corporations can afford paint for his or her pharmacies.
This automotive wash operation appeared odd to us though GANNET2 was coated in mud. Taking a lot care to scrub the automotive with out a piece of asphalt anyplace in sight appeared to defy warning non sense however I suppose everybody desires a clear automotive on occasion even when it entails standing out within the warmth.
![]() |
However for us there was one large attraction in Realidade:
This piece of decrepitude is the one gasoline station for the subsequent 300 miles.Rusty instantly assumed the place.
Brazilians are all the time prepared with a smile.
I might clarify I needed our jugs crammed which was fairly apparent however speaking to him and making small discuss is totally out of attain.
We come from the US and I all the time say Miami as each Latin American is aware of that metropolis.
In Mexico and Peru I’ve paid for a motorcyclists gasoline including their liters to my invoice simply because I can. Right here I can’t even clarify a freebie. I discover it irritating.
Throughout the freeway we bought lunch.
He mentioned beef, we mentioned superb then just like the gasoline station they provided us WiFi and we might have used our translator however we bought what we got:
A canine cane by to look at and he or she bought Christmas in August, a pile of kibbles, some moist meals and Layne’s rice and beans. I can’t stand having a hungry canine watch me eat.
Again to the grime freeway on and on it went.
And the bridges we drive over additionally assist semi vehicles, a reality which provides us confidence we might be okay. All bridges have names and in Brazil they’re described because the bridge over such-and-such stream or river.
By about 4 within the afternoon we had been nicely previous being able to cease.
GANNET2 was in fact coated with mud about which we might do nothing. Our decrease tire pressures made the experience extra comfy which helped however driving grime tires me because it requires fixed consideration.
I’m fairly certain Rusty prefers Patagonia to the recent jungle however we’ll be again there quickly sufficient.
We stopped in fact however they waved us on, no accidents and no pleasure. It had simply occurred however they pointed to their telephone to say that they had already referred to as for assist.
Our cease for the evening at Maria’s 100 miles into the highway.
Maria cooking…
…our dinner. $14 and filling.
Rusty bought kibbles and cheese and hen and needed to remain aboard as he was too drained to take care of the canine.
It was hotter and stickier than the evening earlier than however there was additionally a chilly bathe. We lack for nothing on this unusual highway.